Day 35: Cheow Lan Lake, Khao Sok

Day 35: Cheow Lan Lake – A Day of Contrasts

Our one-day tour to Cheow Lan Lake in Khao Sok National Park was one we had eagerly anticipated. It’s a place that graces postcards and Instagram feeds alike, with its striking limestone cliffs and emerald-green waters. While it was an adventure filled with awe-inspiring sights, it also came with its share of less-than-magical moments—so here’s our honest take.

The day began with a long drive to the lake, a little too long, in fact. The van journey, while air-conditioned, felt endless, with twisty jungle roads doing no favours for anyone prone to travel sickness. Spirits lifted when we finally arrived and climbed into a long-tail boat, but even this, after a while, began to drag. The engines are loud, the seating less than luxurious, and when your surroundings are stunning but repetitive, it can begin to feel like you’re simply ticking off a tourist box.

The weather didn’t help. The famous glassy emerald waters of Cheow Lan Lake were dulled by the overcast skies, which sapped some of the lake’s usual vibrancy. That said, the towering limestone cliffs were still an incredible sight—monolithic and ancient, they seemed to rise defiantly out of the water, shrouded in mist and mystery.

The creation of Cheow Lan Lake in the 1980s was part of the construction of the Ratchaprapha Dam, built to provide hydroelectric power for southern Thailand. The dam flooded a vast area of jungle, creating a lake spanning over 165 square kilometres, with its now-iconic limestone karsts and steep cliffs rising dramatically from the water.

Before the dam, the area was home to villages, farmland, and dense rainforest, which were submerged as the valley was transformed into a reservoir. The process displaced communities who had lived there for generations, their homes and livelihoods swallowed by the rising water. Today, when the lake's water levels are lower, remnants of the old villages—such as tree stumps and submerged structures—can still be seen, standing as eerie reminders of the region's history.

The flooded trees, many of which remain standing, create a hauntingly beautiful scene. Their skeletal forms rise from the water like natural sculptures, offering a glimpse of the vibrant forest that once thrived here.

Our first stop from the boat was Diamond Cave and a humid exploration of its stalactites and stalagmites. While the formations were impressive, the sheer number of tourists dampened the experience. It felt a bit like being herded through an attraction, with little time to stop and truly take in the natural wonder. The entire tour had a “tourist gravy train” vibe that was hard to shake. Until they all suddenly left in their longtails and it was just our group and we could then take our time looking at this eerie cave with its kryptonite-type structures.

Lunch, however, was a highlight. Served at a floating restaurant on the lake, the food was fresh, delicious, and abundant—a feast of Thai flavours, fresh lake fish, mussaman curry and a host of other dishes, that re-energised us for the next part of the day.

After lunch, we had time to swim and kayak in the lake. This was a slightly surreal experience—long-tail boats, kayaks, and swimmers all sharing the same stretch of water with a carefree disregard for any concept of health and safety! It kind of worked, but wasn't without stress with young children. The water was warm, and despite the duller skies, it was refreshing and fun to paddle around the stunning scenery.

As the day wore on, we piled back into the long-tail boat for the return trip. By this point, everyone was feeling the strain of too much time sitting—first in the van, then the boat (hard wooden benches)—but the journey home provided some light relief. Fellow travellers thrown together in the tour shared amusing stories of mishaps and adventures, which made the time pass more quickly.

When we finally returned to our treehouse, we were all ready for some proper downtime. Fruit shakes by the pool and a cooling swim washed away the fatigue, leaving us refreshed and grateful for our home base in the jungle.

So, was Cheow Lan Lake worth it? Yes and no. The natural beauty is undeniable, but the tour itself lacked a sense of discovery—it felt too pre-packaged, too crowded, and at times, too long. If you’re in the area, it’s worth visiting to see the lake and cliffs for yourself, but I’d recommend doing some research into less crowded, smaller-scale tours to really experience the magic of Khao Sok.

Many people choose to stay in the floating bungalows for a night. Having seen them, we were happy that we did not choose this option. It is crowded until 4pm until all the boat tourists leave. I expect it is magical after that. The shared bathroom facilities were not that appealing, but it's one night, so you could suck it up. However, I do think with young children it would not hold fascination for long. Once the swimming and the kayaking are done to exhaustion, there really isn't anywhere to go. But, that's us, not having tried it, just an observer perspective. Many people report it being a highlight, particularly in the morning. I imagine it could be lovely for a couple.

For us, it was a day of contrasts—moments of awe tempered by the realities of mass tourism. But as always, the memories, both good and bad, are what make the journey worth it. And seeing our children whoop and laugh as they (and us) got soaked by the endless longtail spray, was a reminder that children don't see the crowds or the clouds. They just find the fun.