Day 11: Further off the tourist trail. Spiritual Chiang Mai.

Day 11: Temples, Caves, Hot Springs, and a Final Night in Chiang Mai

Today was another day of exploration, with a hired car and Lorne behind the wheel. We headed north of Chiang Mai again, our first destination being Muang On Cave. The day started serenely with morning monk incantations at the temple nearby. Their chants filled the air as we admired the intricate work of a local statue artist, who was creating stunning carvings with incredible precision.

The cave itself was a journey into the scary depths. The steep steps leading down were a test of stamina and knees, but the atmosphere inside the cave was worth it—dimly lit with stalactites dripping from the ceiling and ancient carvings tucked into corners. Exiting the cave site, we stumbled upon a colony of wild monkeys, including playful babies. The girls were enchanted, watching the monkeys swing from branches, along electric cables suspended in the air like tightrope walkers and dart across the ground, completely at ease in their jungle home.

Next, we stopped for a mid-morning coffee break at a charming Japanese-style tea house. Perched beside a peaceful pond, it felt like a hidden retreat. The tea house was surrounded by a hydroponics farm, which fascinated the kids as they got to see how plants can grow without soil. The quiet setting, paired with a good cup of coffee, was a moment of calm before we continued on.

Our next stop was the San Kamphaeng Hot Springs, where the day took an unexpected turn. The natural hot springs were surrounded by beautiful gardens, with steam rising from the pools. The kids delighted in sharing quail eggs, boiled in the hot springs, with fellow travellers. But a minor mishap occurred—Francesca accidentally burned herself on one of the hot pools. Thankfully, a kind Buddhist monk came to help, offering comforting words, advice and some soothing ointment. There was no-one here that spoke English aside from the monk. But all of the local visitors who observed our distressed daughter were quick to come to offer help (everyone seemed to be carrying a miracle cream and offered it up willingly - the sheer preparedness or hypochondria of these people was astonishing!), words of comfort in their own tongue, some sweets and treats for Francesca and it was just kindness after kindness. Francesca, however, hated it all. The burn on her hand, the attention, the endless attention from all these kind people, but eventually we were able to calm her down and get ice on her hand and the monk’s ointment, which really did help.

Despite the early drama, we made the most of the visit, soaking our legs in the warm waters and enjoying the tranquil atmosphere. The springs, set against the lush gardens, were a beautiful spot to unwind and communicate with other visitors. We were really off the tourist path here though.

For lunch, we stopped at a small local market, where the food was as fresh as it was delicious. Simple, authentic dishes were served with no frills, and the bustling market was a vibrant slice of everyday life in the region.

On our way to Wat Doi Suthep, we spotted a cluster of towering spires and a giant Buddha gleaming on the skyline. Curiosity got the better of us, so we took a detour to investigate. What we found was breathtaking—a hidden temple high in the hills that was utterly serene and impressive. It was one of those unplanned moments that ends up being a highlight, a discovery, a feeling of having stumbled across a secret, as yet hidden from tourist maps and blogs.

Finally, we reached Wat Doi Suthep, one of Chiang Mai’s most famous temples. While undeniably beautiful, it didn’t quite match the magic of the hidden gem we’d just discovered. Still, it was a fitting way to bookend the day, as we stayed to witness the monks’ evening incantations, bringing a sense of closure to our temple visits.

On our way back, we navigated a winding mountain road in the hopes of catching the sunset, but we just missed it. No matter—our evening ended with a return to the night market, where we enjoyed one last “pick-your-own” feast. The kids devoured their final chocolate roti with sticky fingers and happy smiles.

The day was a perfect mix of planned stops and spontaneous discoveries, and as we packed our bags for the next leg of our journey, we felt grateful for the adventures and memories Chiang Mai had given us.

Wat Pratat Doisaket: A Hidden Gem Above the Treetops

One of the most memorable discoveries of the day wasn’t on our original itinerary. On our way to Wat Doi Suthep, we caught sight of towering spires and a giant Buddha gleaming above the treetops, standing out against the vivid blue sky. The structures looked so striking that we couldn’t resist taking a detour to find out what they were. What we stumbled upon was Wat Pratat Doisaket, a breathtaking, off-the-beaten-path temple that felt worlds away from the busier tourist sites.

Getting to the temple required a bit of determination. The sheer number of steep steps leading up to the main complex was daunting, especially in the relentless heat of the midday sun. With every step, the sun seemed to beat down harder, and the climb felt never-ending. But as we reached the top, the effort paid off spectacularly.

The atmosphere at Wat Pratat Doisaket was nothing short of serene, spiritual. Unlike the busier temples in the region, this one was tranquil, with only a handful of other visitors. The stillness was broken only by the faint rustling of leaves in the breeze and the occasional tinkling of wind chimes hanging from the temple eaves. It felt as though we’d uncovered a secret treasure, far from the usual tourist trail.

From the temple grounds, the vistas were incredible. The dense jungle stretched endlessly below, with patches of farmland and tiny villages dotting the landscape. In the distance, the hills rose and fell like waves, their peaks slightly hazy in the afternoon light. The giant Buddha, perched high above the trees, seemed to watch over it all, a silent guardian of this sacred space.

The temple itself was equally impressive. Its towering golden spires gleamed in the sunlight, and intricate carvings adorned every surface. The peaceful energy of the place, combined with its stunning architecture, made it feel deeply spiritual and special.

There was something humbling about being there. The climb, the heat, and the seclusion of the site all added to its charm, making it feel like a destination we’d truly earned. As we explored the grounds, it became clear that Wat Pratat Doisaket wasn’t just a place to visit—it was a place to linger, reflect, and soak in the beauty of both nature and human artistry.

It’s these unexpected detours that often make a trip unforgettable. Wat Pratat Doisaket wasn’t in any guidebooks we’d read, nor had it been recommended to us, but it turned out to be one of the highlights of our day. As we made our way back down the long flight of steps, we were tired but exhilarated, knowing we’d found something truly special that many travellers might miss.

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Highlights of Northern Chiang Mai - Day 11