Day 10: Lornie’s Tours - Off The Tourist Track in Chiang Mai’s Wilds

Day 10: Lornie’s Tours - Off The Tourist Track in Chiang Mai’s Wilds

Today we took matters into our own hands! From Limmy's Tour to Lornie's Tour! With a rental car at our disposal and Lorne as our trusted driver and guide, we set off on an adventure into the lush jungle regions north of Chiang Mai. I must admit, asking ChatGPT for a two-day 'off-beaten-track' itinerary proved a good use of AI. It saved us endless trawling through guides and offered driving distances, good suggestions and some interesting information and up to date pricing too. I've used it a few times to suggest self-done tours and it has proved itself a useful tool from a blank start, giving us an initial structure which we can then flex and divert from as we find other things on route. We certainly didn't see group tours and coaches on this itinerary, so it was also successful from that perspective - and different from the tours that are sold at every Chiang Mai guesthouse.

The drive itself was an experience, winding through dense forests and passing towering bamboos that seemed to stretch into the sky, swaying and creaking. But the roads were in noticeably good condition (having come from the pot-hole country of the world - England, where almost everywhere the roads are in a shocking state and being left to get further into disrepair).

The sheer number of butterflies was encouraging (where have they disappeared to from the UK?) —flashes of colour darting and fluttering everywhere, some at quite impressive sizes.

Our first stop was a trail of stunning waterfalls. We were the only people walking these paths at this time in the morning. We paid our entrance to the Doi Suthep National Park and drove to the first jungle waterfall. It was absolutely gorgeous natural scenery. Jumping over stepping stones, stone ledges, fallen trunks and a bit of a climb, we found the glorious splurge of water. With the sunshine glinting off the water creating rainbows against the bamboo and sequoia trees, it was breathtakingly beautiful. The noise was impressive as the waterfall hit the pool and we all enjoyed getting refreshed by the spray in the breeze. The second waterfall was even more impressive. Again, it was putting on its torrent show just for us, its only audience. This was impressively high and the cascade was wide across a whole bank of Jurassic cliffs and rocks right above us. The waterfalls were popular with all of us.

For lunch, we stumbled upon a tranquil riverside spot where tables were set up on rafts secured and hovering right above the river (fed by the sparkling waterfalls). It was the kind of serene setting you might dream about — the sound of the river, delicious spicy food that hit the spot (and, yes, ok a few flies - I did say I would report the highs, lows and everything in between, but a lit candle soon reduced their number). It was a moment to capture, with the jungle and river providing the perfect backdrop.

The next stop was the Queen Sirikit Botanical Gardens, a horticultural gem nestled in the jungle. We ventured out onto the canopy walk, a breathtaking steel grid and glazed pathway suspended high above the treetops. The view was awe-inspiring as we gazed down over the dense tropical jungle stretching as far as the eye could see. Giant banana plants with extraordinary-sized leaves. The bridge itself was sleek and modern, constructed of steel and glass panels, with railings that gave just enough security without obstructing the views. As we climbed higher, the jungle stretched out below us, revealing a thick, green tapestry of ferns, palms, and towering trees.

Beneath our feet, the forest floor seemed impossibly far away, and for a brief moment, it felt like walking on air with trees swaying beneath and at the side of us. The kids never hesitated, stepping onto the transparent panels, leaping about. They delighted in watching birds flit through the canopy below and spotting huge colourful butterflies fluttering at eye level.

It was peaceful yet exhilarating—a rare chance to feel both connected to and above the natural world.

The experience was equal parts thrilling and serene. The height gave a sense of adventure, while the vibrant greenery and soft jungle sounds brought a deep sense of calm. It was a humbling reminder of the beauty and complexity of nature, and we left the canopy walk feeling invigorated, with the kids buzzing about how "cool" it was to have walked among the treetops.

This walk was more than just an activity; it was a chance to step outside of our usual perspective—both literally and figuratively—and marvel at the world from a whole new vantage point.

The Queen Sirikit Botanical Gardens were lovely but you need enough time to tour them properly. We didn't and everything seemed to close half an hour before the advertised time so we did not get to see the Natural History museum there which was a shame (we should have had time, it's just they decided to close it early - so do check on paying your entry what the schedule is that day. While the entire garden was a feast for the senses, the highlight for all of us was undoubtedly the Canopy Walk, a structure that quite literally elevated our perspective on the natural world and gave us some epic mountain views with soaring eagles in the background.

The glasshouses at the gardens were another highlight. Each one showcased a different ecosystem, from cacti to tropical orchids. The kids loved spotting plants they’d never seen before, and we all marvelled at the diversity and ingenuity of nature. The favourite was the carnivorous plant glasshouse with some giant sculptures magnifying some of the more peculiar-looking insect-eating plants, but with holes for the children to pop their heads through, experiencing the moment when the poor bug realises its ultimate fate. Doh!

After a day of exploring lush jungles, towering bamboo forests, and breathtaking waterfalls, we returned to Chiang Mai ready to dive into the vibrant energy of the night market. By now, it’s become one of our favourite parts of the day—a buzz and superb variety of food choices.

This evening felt special because the girls decided to embrace their independence. With some gentle encouragement, they ventured off on their own to select their meals, order, and pay—all in the bustle of the market. Watching them navigate the crowded stalls with confidence, politely pointing at dishes and counting out baht, and then using their manners - thank you in Thai. They returned with a mix of street food delights: steaming plates of rice and panang curry, skewers of grilled meat, and colourful fruit smoothies. Demolished within minutes!

The market was alive with the smell of sizzling woks and fragrant curries mingling with the sweetness of freshly cut mangoes and sticky rice. Stalls spilled over with endless choices—roti with banana and condensed milk, grilled seafood, crispy fried spring rolls, with sushi and desserts so vibrant they looked almost too good to eat.

In the background, traditional Thai dancing and music created an atmospheric soundtrack to the evening. Dancers in elegant costumes moved gracefully to the sounds of traditional instruments, adding a cultural richness to the already vibrant atmosphere. Around us, locals and foreigners mingled easily, united by the buzz of the market.

Despite the bustle, the atmosphere felt safe. The mix of families, travellers and locals created a lively but welcoming vibe. The girls felt at ease exploring the stalls, their confidence growing as they interacted with the friendly vendors.

We found a cozy spot to sit and eat together, sharing bites of everything we’d collected.

By the time we’d finished, the market was still humming with activity, but we were ready to head back, where the rooftop pool provided the perfect end to a perfect day.

Watching our girls take these confident and significant steps towards independence in such a dynamic foreign environment was deeply satisfying. It was a reminder of the growth you always experience as an individual through travel—not just in the places you see, the people you encounter, the different conversation topics you cover, but in the way it shapes and empowers you along the way. While we have temporarily removed our children from mainstream traditional education, you can see the absorption of knowledge, cultural experience, language, and confidence that comes through having this type of experience. It is now becoming more difficult to engage them with sit-down reading comprehension and maths, understandably. The temptations of their environment are sometimes proving too much, but we remain resilient and try to keep a routine going until Christmas break at least.

With Lornie’s Tours officially declared a success, we’re ready for day 2 of ChatGPT's suggestions and Lorne at the wheel!

Gallery

Thrilling views in the jungle. Nature at its best.