Bangkok - how you've changed

December 1, 2024

Bangkok, How You’ve Changed

It’s been over a decade since I last set foot in Bangkok, and wow—how much can change in 12 years! Back then, arriving in this city was like being caught in a whirlwind of sights, smells, and sounds. It was an unapologetic assault on the senses. The tuk-tuks spluttered and revved like tiny engines of chaos, the streets were littered with rubbish, beggars and hustlers dotted every corner, and the unmistakable smell of fish sauce and fermented shrimp filled the air, whether you liked it or not.

Today, Bangkok feels... different. The city hasn’t lost its charm—far from it—but it’s been polished, cleaned up, and in many ways, tamed. The traffic still crawls at a snail’s pace, and people are still quietly hustling to make a living, but it’s all a bit less chaotic, a bit more orderly.

Some areas have benefited greatly from this transformation. The streets around the temples, the piers, and the parks are cleaner and more accessible. The Grand Palace gleams like a postcard come to life, and the Chao Phraya River feels less like an industrial thoroughfare and more like the bustling cultural artery it should be.

But in other areas, something vital feels lost. Take Chatuchak Market, for example. Gone are the days of haggling over a souvenir, bantering with the stallholders, and marvelling (or recoiling) at stalls selling deep-fried sparrows or barbecued grasshoppers. It feels more sanitised now, more catered to tourists’ comfort zones, with fixed prices and stalls curated for Instagram.

If this means the stallholders are making a good living, then that’s wonderful. And if tourists feel more at ease navigating the market, great for them too. But for us, part of Bangkok’s magic was the thrill of being so far out of our element. The sanitised version of the city feels a little... quieter, a little less wild.

With young kids in tow, we gave areas like Patpong, Sukhumvit, and Khao San Road a wide berth. Those were chapters from my own backpacking days, and I’m happy to leave them for the girls to discover when they’re older, adventuring with their own friends. The air quality seems noticeably improved too, with more vehicles running on alternative fuels. That’s a welcome change, especially when travelling with children.